Seek the Surf

When I was seventeen, I headed west with my parents to tour California schools. The UCLA and Pepperdine campuses were beautiful, but the biggest takeaway of the trip was catching my first wave on a longboard in Malibu. I ended up writing an admissions essay about the experience and submitting it (ironically) to the land-locked University of Texas. My surfing career was over as swiftly as it began. But the experience stayed with me, and I often found myself daydreaming about what I decided was the most poetic of sports. Surfing is an almost perfect metaphor for life: all these years I’ve been trying to catch waves (in work, love, and life) and I’ve had some pretty amazing rides so far. I still believe the Big One is coming — all I have to do is recognize it before it’s too late. In a more literal sense, I’m looking forward ...read the rest of the story here

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